Tom Ford spring 2019: blast from the past

As promised, Tom Ford boys and girls kicked off New York Fashion Week’s spring 2019 edition this Wednesday (09.05) with a Park Avenue Armory-based show. Stars filled the front row seats, but the night’s main attraction stole the show: a focused and precise collection by Ford, perfect as a palate cleanser for the start of the season.

By Ford’s way, of course. Monochrome looks were seductively minimal through body conscious (but never overly tight) dresses and top and knee-lenght skirts combos, filthy rich leathers as jackets, corselets or belts and its juxtaposition agains silk, satin and delicate lace on trimmings or as lingerie tops worn under tailored pieces. The latter, along with the soundtrack and head scarves, added a touch of an italian very, very glamorous summer.

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Before eveningwear (and a strong but a little out of touch leopard print), the revival of 1990’s luxurious minimalism came as a welcomed idea against the baroque excess that reigns supreme on the same Gucci Ford evoked tonight with that infamous white wife beater. It streamlined the designer’s most famous point of view, the one about precise construction and a refined, sexy and polished look from head to toe (to new lipstick colors). Assimetric tailoring and skirts with uncertain (and unflattering) length were misses on an otherwise sharp style message.


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Classic lines and respect for each fabric also brought to mind what could be great reference for the brand: the legacy of Azzedine Alaïa who knew, like no other, to navigate among exquisite expertise deceptively simple and imune to fashion trends.

A final thought: the distance between the clothes strenght and the young models became, as the show went, a disappointing surprise. Fashion will always worship youth, that’s an unfortunate given, but can you imagine what a a team of runway veterans would do to this collection? Maybe next time!

Photos: Vogue Runway.

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